With a golden Buddha from Myanmar through Thailand to Indonesia - Liebe zur Erde... - Liebe zur Erde

With a golden Buddha from Myanmar through Thailand to Indonesia
a trip with adventurous character

Myanmar or Burma - an until recently in many ways closed and isolated country, goes through upside-down changes since the 2011 events: tourist numbers have tripled twice in the last two years 2012 and 2013 compared to the previous year and in the high season the rooms are now not only extremely scarce, but also adventurous expensive. Money changing used to be only possible on the black market at reasonable prices  - now there are ATMs in the big cities  - almost over is the time of the required absolutely new , ironed large dollar bills with special serial numbers, without which you did not come earlier in Myanmar on local cash . And so it happens that I, too decide spontaneous to visit the country: I want to see Bagan. The country in turn proves by its long isolation as very impressive, but also disconcerting - read more at a dedicated page of the website, when it is finished in the next months.




Above: the Buddha of Mahamuni temple, a sanctuary in Myanmar

In Myanmar, I am just the weeks before Christmas. Since I am going to meet with my partner at Christmas in Indonesia, my eyes are opened wider than usual for beautiful art, even though I 'm actually well equipped with gifts. But it hits me in the evening before my departure: hidden somewhere between the countless shops with gilded things around Mahamuny temple - where the golden Buddha is worshiped - I meet him: MY Buddha. And I do believe it is the same shop where others have not come unencumbered by: it is real art, which is produced there! In short: The Buddha must come with me, even though I realize that the transport will not be easy: the good piece is plated with gold, which the Irrawaddy leads with it and is then washed out by the people there. This in turn means that every X check will reveal the nature of my backpack.


Something about the situation in December 2013:

The Foreign Office in Germany doesn´t speak of any restriction of exports of religious objects from Myanmar / Burma. But the big inch panels in front of the X-ray check the next morning in Mandalay say something else: here the export of religious objects requires a written approval by a special authority. That, of course, I can´t provide anymore. Uncomfortable: what's right or wrong now?

Bigger is the problem, however, in Thailand: the country will be a 20 hours transit home to me. From here, I can definitely not export a Buddha, because all religious statues are believed to be spiritual beings and are therefore considered as sacred. It is generally advised to have things in doubt declared upon entry and treat the Buddha in transport respectful. The result is at the willpower of the officials.


Worried hours:

The contingent of officials at the radiation baggage check at the airport in Mandalay is scary. And I have so much stuff with me (currently I travel with about 45-50 kg ) that I can´t run quickly through and away . So I must take all the time in the world to nurse money belt, cell phone, hair belt, belt and everything else which is beeping equipment at the body check, back into place on me. The officials see on the screen what I have, pointing on it - they look at me, but they do not stop me. First hurdle done. Thailand will hopefully not send my little Buddha back to Myanmar when I'm with it at customs ...

When I arrive in Bangkok I take the Buddha out from the backpack, wrap it in nicely again in garment and place him on top of the baggage car. That way I go looking for the red customs area, where a whole group of people is standing but nobody wants to check me - they want to wave me through. Oh no, I think, where can I bring tomorrow morning at 4.30 the proof that the Buddha came with me from Myanmar? So I stop and start to speak with the officers and explain the problem. Now they become curious - and careful. Official language regime is that an export license can be granted in case of a single Buddha per person which one person can easily carry. The officials recognize therefore quickly that my over 30 cm high piece must be of wood. 6-8 people standing around me, looking at the unwrapped Buddha and discuss the matter. Then one hurries me further into a hidden corner to an other official who checks again also more accurate. At the end is clear: the Buddha may come with me (but may be also, because I 'm only as a transit through Thailand?) And the statue can get out tomorrow, too. In order to confirm the process the little Buddha, who is a Christmas present for my partner, recieves a customs seal on his arm.

The next morning I let the Buddha at the baggage check in Bangkok in a backpack and not initially report it also . The seal is attached to the arm that is not gold-plated, and therefore visible in the X-ray machine. Anyway, I am not stopped - at least not because of the Buddha. For the next flights and days all inspectors are suddenly of the opinion that I transport " food" in my laptop case: however, they look for it in vain ...

Now the Buddha is with us, could come with me this morning to the coral beach and pleased us very much. On the flight home my partner goes over Islamic countries, wich will certainly transport Buddhas with no problems. Nevertheless, we leave the customs seal from Thailand off as a precaution - who knows what else is coming ....